top of page
  • Writer's pictureVarun Mani

Exploring a Tiger Reserve on a Walking Safari: Satpura National Park, India.

Updated: Jun 10


Pachmarhi, the highest point in the Central Indian Highlands at 1400m msl, is the location of the Forsyth Trail at Satpura. Photo credit : Abhay Ashok, Wiki.


The Tiger has often been referred to as the "gentleman of the jungle": Picture walking down a long, winding trail through a forest's edge near a village in Central India. The golden rays of the sun shine through the trees, diminishing the mist that has filled the forest in the early morning.


Suddenly, far in the distance, you see a large figure on all fours, stopped in its tracks. It observes you with a raised head and pricked ears, and walks away into the jungle immediately with its head down ; almost allowing you safe passage along that path that you were traversing.


That is the tiger's behaviour when confronted by man in normal circumstances. Often, we do not even realise that a Tiger has ever been there, except unless it is betrayed by its footprints or its nemeses', the deer and the langur's, distress calls.


A less explored form of wildlife safari in India is by walking through a Tiger Reserve.

This is possible in National Parks such as Kanha and Satpura in Madhya Pradesh(Central India), and in Nameri in Assam. These are truly the hidden gems of India, a way to explore the country where the silence and the cacophony of the forest is yours alone, when you truly feel like you are in the wild, treading the same path as the forest' s inhabitants.


The walking safari at Satpura is special : You can Camp for 3 or 5 days on the Forsyth Trail at Satpura Tiger Reserve! These mobile camps by Forsyth Lodge are comfortable, rugged, and provide surprising luxury in the middle of nowhere.


About Satpura Tiger Reserve :


Satpura is one of the most ancient and picturesque ranges of mountains in India, located in the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh.


The dense forests, deep valleys, and rugged but assailable mountains of the Satpura Range have been home to various indigenous tribes, wildlife, and flora for millions of years. It is also one of the most bio-diverse zones in the country, with a wide range of flora and fauna, making it an ecological hotspot and a haven for wildlife enthusiasts. Scenic beauty of old forests greet you at every turn.



What animals can we see at Satpura on Safari?

Jeep Safaris at Satpura are best known for yielding sightings of the Leopard, the Sloth Bear, and the Tiger. One can also spot the Indian Giant Squirrel, Marsh Crocodile, Gaur, and numerous birds including the very special Indian Skimmer, which is a summer a migrant to the Denwa River at Satpura. Satpura is also one of the best birding hotspots in India.



What animals can we see at Satpura on Walking Safari?

Ideally, one would never desire a close encounter with an animal in the wild. And in dry deciduous forests such as Satpura Tiger Reserve where wildlife is extremely sensitive and weary to human movement on foot, they are seldom seen. However from view points or even at a distance, one can see mammals and even predators. Birdwatching is a constant as you explore the jungle on foot.


Exploring the forest on foot is an experience like no other. You see the jungle up close and you can observe tracks and signs of animals, insects, birds, trees, and rocks. A lesson in the natural history of the extremely special landscape of Satpura Tiger Reserve in Central Indian Highlands.


Mammal Highlights on the Forsyth Trail walk at Satpura Tiger Reserve:

Indian Giant Squirrel, Gaur, Sambar, Barking Deer, Spotted Deer, Indian Wild Dog, Sloth Bear, Leopard, Tiger, Otters. But do not count on seeing of them ; there are plenty of tracks and signs of all the afore mentioned animals.


Birding Highlights on the Forsyth Trail walk at Satpura Tiger Reserve:

Malabar Whistling Thrush, Black Crested Bulbul, Blue Capped Rock Thrush, White Browed Bulbul, Black Eagle amongst many more.



About Forsyth Trail : India's only camping opportunity at a Tiger Reserve

Forsyth's Trail, named after James Forsyth, a British explorer who first discovered the Satpura Range in the 19th century. The trail is a beautiful journey deep into the Satpura forest, offering breathtaking vistas and close encounters with some of the most exotic wildlife species in the country.


The Forsyth's Trail begins at Pachmarhi, a picturesque hill station known for its scenic beauty and pleasant climate. The walking safari takes you through dense forest cover, crisscrossed by streams and waterfalls, and leads you to the heart of the Satpura Range. The trail is a mix of gentle slopes, steep climbs, and rocky outcrops, offering a thrilling experience for nature and wildlife lovers.


As you traverse deeper into the forest, you will come across a variety of wildlife and their tracks and signs, tigers, leopards, sloth bears, and many species of birds and reptiles move along the same route you take on the Forsyth Trail.


The Satpura Range is also home to many indigenous tribes, who have lived in harmony with nature for centuries. The tribes have unique customs, traditions, and languages, and their lifestyle reflects their deep connection with the forest. A good understanding of the very unique flora of Pachmarhi has embibed a culture of traditional medicine that has long served the people of these areas.

The Forsyth's Trail is not just a journey through the wilderness, but also a journey back in time, to a world that is still untouched by the fast-paced modern life. The trail offers a chance to connect with nature, to understand the delicate balance of ecosystems, and to learn to live in harmony with the world around us.

The trail is not easy, but it is worth the effort. You will need a guide and a naturalist, who will help you navigate the dense forest and keep you safe from wildlife. You will also need to be physically fit, as the trail involves a lot of walking and climbing. The best time to visit the Satpura Range is between December and March, when the weather is pleasant and beautiful, and the forest is at its most vibrant.



The Forsyth Trail with Forsyth Lodge :

Forsyth Lodge at Satpura Tiger Reserve is a trusted up-scale lodge with an ethos towards protecting the land and the wildlife. The naturalists at Forsyth Lodge are extremely able and full of energy and will leave no stone unturned in your quest for a great wildlife experience. All photos shared above of the camps and of the trail, have been arranged by Forsyth Lodge.


A naturalist from your lodge accompanied by forest guides will be with you at all times through the trail. They play the vital role of storytelling and tracking, which will bring the forest to life. Our second team will be in-charge of setting up mobile camps which will move with you along the trail. The team will prepare the appropriate food and ensure that you have comfortable stops to keep your spirits high.


In their own very practical words :

Who should do the Forsyth Trail Walking Safari :

It sounds exciting to be in the wilderness and the landscape where there is a sudden deafening silence, away from 1.3 billion people right in the heart of the Indian map. There is endless learning of the ways wildlife lives and behaves, most encounters are the signs and tracks than the animal itself. This experience is for those who want to be a part of the story a jungle weaves.


Wildlife sighting can be possible but may not be long enough for photography, and it depends what you consider photographing; bugs, butterflies, flowers and endless creativity with natural patterns in the wilderness is about. This is specially designed for people who appreciate watching things through a binocular and magnifying lens than clicking for 100 likes on their post.


It is for serious wildlife enthusiasts, bird watchers, tree-huggers, butterfly watchers and keen guests with enthusiasm to appreciate anything that we encounter on the trail with no particular expectation of a charismatic animal sighting. It is not really for the point-to-point or check-the-tick-box hikers.


It is for those who can rough it out and be happy with little things, and are ready for subtle deviations in plans in natural conditions and inevitable circumstances. It is luxurious for those who would prefer to camp in basic canvas tents with minimal luxury. And especially the ones who enjoy a scrumptious meal with enchanting views and who are happy with the love served in the cuisine and its quality, rather than the number of items served.

And most importantly, the trail demands a certain level of fitness which involves walking for 15-kilometre length per day in uncertain and uneven terrain.


What to expect on the Forsyth Trail Walking Safari :

When we walk the jungle, we walk in its pace. The forest is as slow or as fast as we breathe it in, it invariably makes you touch it, set your foot down and bow down to the bugs and the little flowers that it blooms to advertise a future for itself and you. It is a jungle, consumed inside you and it seldom calls you but awakens inside you and then you simply arrive. You’d walk where a tiger has walked as it lets you talk within to the one you have occasionally talked.

In our race of existence versus extinction, a few… bare few dense forests are left in India, astonishingly they occupy only 3% of the land, and that too is vulnerable to the socio-economic pressures we currently undergo. Satpura is such a landscape in Central India that has unbroken forest cover, thanks to its unpromising terrain for agriculture and selfless efforts of the Madhya Pradesh Forest Department, Local communities, and Naturalists who have a common vision; Conservation.


Forsyth Lodge in Satpura is sensitive about this twilight hour of the planet’s ecosystem and ever since it has been in the region, it has been constantly working to create a sustainable and efficient tourism model.

Having been indirectly involved in many management plans of the Forest Department, the Forsyth Team actively strives to create best practices for minimally invasive wildlife experiences. We strongly pursue the cause to reduce motored modes of exploring towards minimal carbon footprint ways of experiencing Satpura. Apart from the walking and canoe safaris at Satpura, there is another favorite experience of our naturalists.


The Forsyth Trail is a 3 night or 5 night trail to understand a Tiger Reserve. The trail is set in the Core and Buffer zone of the Satpura Tiger Reserve. The experience is about the Indian Jungles through a naturalist’s point of view, through their real time stories. Of course, there is always an element of fun and adventure in one of the most spectacular wilderness habitats of this country.

Surrender to the beauty of the Indian Jungle and experience the forest like only a few have ever done so before. On an epic walk inside a Tiger Reserve in India.



Camping in Satpura Tiger Reserve on the Forsyth Trail :

Campsites are fixed on an arrangement with the Forest Department, a permit would be taken by us once you sign up for this trail. The tents are made of canvas and cotton material, about 10 feet high, 12 feet. long, and 10 feet in wide. There will be cots and beds, side-tables, luggage-table and solar charged lighting.Toilet tents are separate, a wooden toilet seat is designed for ablutions into dry pits. Bath tents are provided separately where hot water is provided in buckets. The campsites are remote and they are common sites for other operators as well, it has no electricity and mobile phone reception. Lighting is minimal with fuel lanterns and candles around the tent, in-tent lighting is a solar charged lamp.

No electricity or batteries to charge phones, cameras and other devices!


What is the Weather at the Forsyth Trail?

Weather - November to December, can get cloudy and we may experience intermittent drizzle along the trail. Nights can be very cold. Temperatures vary from 10 °C at Night, 5°C to 8°C in the early mornings to 25°C by noon. Jan – Mid March is cold in the night, 10°C at night and early morning to 30°C by noon. Weather is dry and sunny which is pleasant to walk through the day.



What are the meals at the Forsyth Trail Campsite?

At the campsite, dinners will be a full course meal.


Breakfast is English breakfast with vegetarian options available. Packed lunch would be rolls or sandwiches and a trail-mix of nuts, dried fruits and seasonal fruits.


Tent provision- Beds are comfortable mattress, blankets and duvets are provided, soft pillows are kept by default (Let us know if a hard pillow is required), luggage table and bedside tables are provided, hot water bag is provided at night, two SS water bottles are provided which can be used to refill and carried along the trail. Toilet tents and Bath tents are separate, towels, soap and scrub are provided at the campsite.


Water- Drinking water is carried from the lodge in cans which is filtered and RO treated, which is safe to drink and to carry for the trail.



Is the Walking Safari on the Forsyth Trail safe?

At the campsite, we restrict our walks to vicinity of the campsite as there is wildlife activity in the buffer region. Nearest medical assistance from the campsites is at least two hour away. A First Aid kit is carried by the Naturalist. Propergear as advised in ‘Things to Pack’ to be considered for walking safety. Bear spray and horns are carried by naturalist during the trail in case we encounter a Sloth Bear at close quarters, safety briefing will be emphasized before and throughout the trail.



What to carry for the Forsyth Trail Walking Safari :


Priority List :

· Binoculars – ideally 8x42.

· Weatherproof Shoes preferable high ankles

· Two sets of polyester clothing, full sleeves shirt is recommended for the trail (Cotton attracts spikes and poking seeds)

· Fleece jacket

· Down jacket/ Windcheater

· Thermal innerwear

· Prescribed medicines

· 1 L Water bottle

· Day Pack – 3 to 5 L

· Gloves

· Hat or Cap

· Sunblock lotion

· Flashlight or headlight

· 2 pairs of socks (We do river crossing and certain damp places may dampen the socks)

· Basic toiletries Optional List:

· Camera – A point and shoot is recommended, if you are carrying a DSLR upto 300 mm attachment is recommended.

· Batteries and extras for devices needed

· Power bank and cords

· e-Readers or Books

· Light snack

· Hand warmers

· Duffle bag or backpack or even you could tie them up into a bundle using a bed sheet or towel to send essentials that we only need at the campsite like Books, toiletries, extra warm layers, power-banks and cords, etc.


Recommended to read before the trail :

· Do’s and Don’ts during safaris and bush walking (Web based search)

· Leave No Trace principles (Web based search)

· Birds of Indian subcontinent by Inskipps and Grimmet (Field Guide)

· Jungle Trees of Central India by Pradip Kishen (Especially the introductionchapters)

· Highlands of Central India by Capt James Forsyth (Available for free on google books)

· Tracks and Signs field guide by Shekar Kolipaka

· Wildlife of Central India by Surya Ramachandran and David Raju (Available at Forsyth Lodge)

Comments


bottom of page